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Travels around the world (with Beth and Chris)

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Memento Park

Yesterday we took a bus ride out of Budapest to a small outdoor off the beaten path museum called Memento Park.

In 1989 when the the Soviet Union collapsed and the eastern block countries were democratized, many of the villages and towns had to decide what to do with their communist era statues, memorials, etc. In most cases they were destroyed or melted down to created new pieces that were more in keeping with the current political situation.

Budapest had the idea of preserving their statues and rather than create a memorial to communism, they conceived a memorial to the fall of communism and it’s associated tyranny.  It really helps you understand what life was like in Hungary during the communist regime.  They even have a small movie theater where they show actual communist training films on how to be a spy (with subtitles). It’s kind of hilarious!

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They also have an old Trabant on display, which was the “people’s car” during communism. It was an underpowered, unreliable, air polluting piece of junk, but was really the only car that most people could hope to afford.  Our tour guide told us her grandmother ordered one in 1974 at which time she had to put down a deposit for the full amount.  She finally took delivery of the car in 1984!

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C

The Five Elements

Let’s go get a Thai massage!

There are so many choices in Budapest for a Thai massage. So, of course we consulted TripAdvisor. We decided on a placed called The Five Elements. After a metro ride, then walking for a few blocks, we found the place.

We cut through the sun-filled courtyard and into the small spa. It smelled good. The short blond young woman at the small desk spoke English with a Hungarian accent and wore a short black kimono –style dress. She agreed to show us around before we committed to the next almost naked 75 minutes of our lives. She showed us to the dimly lit room where there were two massage tables draped with white towels topped with an orchid, a couple of wooden elephant heads where she suggested we hang our clothes, a paper lantern, sink, a spa-ish wall hanging, and soft music. We decided on Thai oil massages (vs. the dry Thai massage which apparently is “yoga stretching”  – hmmmm, maybe I’ll try that next time) – lavender for me, peppermint for Chris.

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Chris and I quickly got down to our skivvies (actually, we were each provided a pair of disposable “underwear”……tehetehetehe). We each got face down onto our respective tables (by now the orchid was on the floor placed right where I could see it from the face hole in the table) and waited to be covered. The masseuses quietly came in the room. At this point, the experience is an individual one, but happening in the same room.

The first sensation I had after the towel was placed on my back was of my masseuse washing my feet. She then pressed on my feet and legs through the towel. I then sensed that she was up on the table straddling me (she was) and continuing to apply pressure all the way up my back through the towel. I was dying to lift my head up to see if this was happening to Chris too (I didn’t. It was.). She eventually, light as a feather,  got off the table and using her strong and able hands worked her way around my body – back, neck, legs, feet, toes, fronts of the legs, arms, hands, fingers, sides and chest (at one point since I was still on my stomach with my face through the donut hole,  I could see her bare feet making her way around – at this point, to my shoulders). Long strokes, circular sweeping motions, fingertips sliding along the muscles – all with the lavender oil. She pressed her fingers deeply into my stomach, then back up to my neck, face, and scalp. Eventually we were both asked to sit up, and each of the women got behind us on the table and did more work – stretching our arms and necks – using their arms and legs. The last part of the massage was a return to washing the feet.

After we got dressed, they gave us tea while we basked in the relaxation of our massages.

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Wow. We felt great! We will be returning to The Five Elements again soon.

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The other side of paradise

Whenever we have traveled I am always scanning for the next great photo; the cascade of bright red geraniums, the interesting artistic signs, mouthwatering food, medieval castles and wrought iron work, purring kitties, loyal dogs, majestic mountains, pink sunsets, ethnic faces. I see so much beauty. I am looking for it.

I cannot see the wonders without also noticing the less than beautiful things before me. These “imperfections” are present no matter where you go – the thoughtless ugly graffiti, the garbage spilling out of the full trash can, the impatient BMW driver who obnoxiously leans on the horn when the pedestrians are still crossing at his green light (yeah he DESERVED to get several walkers’ middle fingers – Chris’ among them!), the dog poop, the stench of bum pee, the homeless people.

The homeless people. There are many. They are in every city. They are in Budapest.

We had a fellow sleeping in the threshold of the building across the street from us early in our stay. It was raining relentlessly and he slept there, I’m assuming because there was an overhang, a somewhat dry respite. I thought obsessively about taking him water and something to eat; first thing in the morning, I would look for him. I then noticed that a woman came to bring him food and he had an seemingly bottomless bottle of amber liquid next to him. He smoked cigarettes. One afternoon when he was in his alternate sunny weather location, I looked at him and said hello. He’s a person, right? He deserves to be treated with dignity, right? His response was a Hungarian litany of I suspect obscenities – he was not interested in my hello, he was yelling at me for something – but I’m not sure what.

There are many who tug at the heartstrings of empathetic people using their physical deformities. I have seen two men outside the Central Market sitting in the median facing each other. They are not there every day (and especially not Sundays since the Central Market is not open on Sundays). They are both amputees. One has no legs, the other has only one.  They are not aggressive, but are there to collect monetary sympathy from passer-by-ers.  There is another older man with a cane lurched out in front of him; he wears dirty clothes and shoes, hobbling awkwardly on his inner feet down a main pedestrian tourist street with his free hand outstretched. If he happens to catch someone’s eye, he puts his hand up to his mouth to gesture that he wants to eat something. When he gestured to an older woman walking next to me she flinched and jumped out of his reach as if a bee has just landed on her. One day I saw him on his usual street and later when I was returning from the market an hour later, he had looped back to the beginning and started his walk all over again.

I have seen old women on the metro steps, people using their small children or dogs as “props”, people rummaging through trash cans for food or cigarette butts, clean cut kids with their hand out trying for some free cash, people with signs apparently explaining why they need a hand out ( I recognize the word “köszönöm” – “thank you”), a few “old women”prostrating themselves on the hard cobblestone street,  their hands in prayer position over their heads, and a paper cup in front of them  (do you know of any decrepit old person who can kneel on the hard pavement like this for one minute, much less twenty?), people providing music with their instrument case open for offerings. There are people who have simply passed out on the park bench sleeping with their mouths wide open and clearly a belly full of booze. There is even a couple that I have seen repeatedly in the metro station at the stop for our gym; they have a “set-up” on a doorstep and I have seen them spooning here many times.

I am not judging. We never know another individual’s circumstances or story. It is a quandry for me to pass a homeless person by, ignoring their outstretched hand, hat, cup, or instrument case, without acknowledging him or her. I just don’t know how to help.

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xo

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